D20 final product. Interested?

I’ve finished the second d20! Now I’m looking for interest. I plan on maybe creating a kickstarter so that I can sell them. The kickstarter would allow an even more professional product. Prices to buy one would be cheaper and I could buy the right supplies to produce them quicker. Here are some very amateur pictures of the two final pieces.

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How to make a D20 part 5. The finale

The final tutorial, time to paint. The first d20 is requested to be teal, with gold numbers. I begin by using an air brush to paint lots and lots of layers.

Then used a gold acrylic to paint in the numbers very very carefully. I could have masked off the numbers with tape to make it more precise, but that would have taken hours and left straight lines on curved numbers. Gold paint also requires 3-4 layers for a solid covering. Here is the numbers painted in.

Now that it is a lovely color time to make it shine. I used Acrylic lacquer spray paint. 4 coats later, the finished product!!! Drum roll please?

Nuff said.

Also side note, my work is not done on the second one.

How to make a D20 part 4. Yahtzee!

Continuing work on the D20 container. Taking a big longer than anticipated for a couple reasons. One being that I need two done at the same time.

So I pulled another cast and got underway with putting all the pieces in it.

I’m still a little more focused on finishing the first one, but here is them side by side.

Managed to work out how to put in the screws in an easier fashion. Just made a hole and used the dremel to slowly make the hole larger so they can sit flat on the rim. Also decided to wait to cut down the rim until all the fittings are done, reduces the amount of filler I get on the inside of the container. Half of filler working time is clean up, yuck.

I also ran into another interesting situation. The magnets attached well, but because they are flat and the lid is flat, it would shift a little bit while closed. So I used my genius cling film technique again and added a splotch of filler onto the screw part and closed the lid and kept it centered. When the filler cured and I opened it I now had a socket that the magnet nestles into comfortably. I have to tell you, all this has created one hell of a satisfying lid. Magnets are fun enough, but thanks to all the other tweaks I find myself just sitting there, opening and closing the thing for long durations of time. Eating away at valuable work time. Open… and close. Open…and close. Open… Anyway here’s a hard to photograph picture of the messy “socket”…and close.

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Okay, I need to get unhypnotized and get to work on the felt. Yes! The felt! That’s what I was doing.

Since I know I’m going to be gluing felt to the interior I needed to prepare it. Really smooth surfaces don’t glue well so I had to key the surface. I just gave it a bit of a sand and then used a scalpel to cross hatch the surface with scratches.

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I then added the felt! I decided to just cut a bunch of triangles up and slightly over lap them so it creates a slight icosahedron(yes I looked that up) effect on the inside as well. Here are the results:

Hurrah, only some very minor touches before it’s ready for painting. Oh, also I made a container with felt on the inside hence the Yahtzee joke. Oh my wit, you can’t handle it.

Open…and close.

How to make a D20 Part 3. Critical miss

Back to work.

I finished the 3rd part of the fiber glass mold for the larger piece.

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Then moved on to casting the s.o.b. Although fast cast sets quickly it requires multiple small pours being slushed around to get an even coat on the inside.

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At least the set fast cast has a really smooth texture. =)

I did this for both pieces and got a couple pulls for each. Errors occurred =( so after two pulls I got one useable piece of each.

So before I pull anymore casts(because it gets boring quick) I’m going to have a go at putting the hinge and magnets in.

Now just because I’ve molded these doesn’t mean I’m done using filler =/

I used screws as the metal for the magnets to attach to. They are easy to put in and if I used two sets of magnets it would be wasteful as well as too strong of a connection. The hinge is glued in using araldite and then screwed in using very very small screws(which still didn’t keep one from going through the top =/) Don’t worry though, using a dremel I easily sorted that out. Next I cleaned up the edges a bit and used my super secret cling film and body filler technique.

So to get the two halves to line up really well I had to use body filler to make the seem perfect. But I have to worry about the body filler attaching to other side so I just put a layer of cling film on one half and filler up to the edge. Okay so it’s not that complicated or genius but it works really well. Here’s how it looked at the end of the day.

Still needs a little bit of touching up and then it’s ready for the innards. Next is to get a second box to the same point and then add some felt :0. I haven’t really worked with the stuff before, but hey its a craft material how hard can it be?… D:

How to make a D20 part 2 Critical hit!

Further work on the D20. Getting it ready for fiberglassing. Used some plastiline to build up a wall. The large piece is gonna be in 3 parts and the smaller in two. I also used some plastic beads to create keys so the fiberglass locks back together well.

Then fiberglassed for a long time, making sure to add some release agent so the pieces will come apart and not attach to each other.

Smaller piece is ready to cast and the larger one only needs one more part to be done.

How to make a D20 Part 1. “That’s no moon.”

Officially started on the project. Geeks get ready. You’ll want one.

I started by cutting out triangles in card and connecting them with tape and paper in a really crafty way. But hey, it works and gets a quick mock up to see how it will work.

I decided it was adequate so I started layering up body filler on it to strengthen it and so I could round the edges and engrave the numbers.

Then after lots of adding filler and sanding it down, it had a lovely smooth texture(too bad I can’t blog the sense of touch). I gave it a coat of green acrylic paint(not important what color, just needed something dark). This would make it easier to engrave as I could see the color change as I go.

I used a small battery powered engraver to mark in all the numbers. Dremels work but are cumbersome and this was very detailed work. After I was done I sanded the paint back off to get a smooth finish for molding.

Then its ready to start molding. I’m going to make a silicone skin with a 2 part fiber glass mother mold on each piece. First step is the silicone.

For the first layer I just used RTV. The second layer is RTV with thixotropic to make it a butter like texture so its easier to layer up.

Fiber glass is next.